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Going to County Kerry in August to fish from the shore/rocks. I have a 9' 6" #9 rod which I imagine will be fine but I am a little unsure as to what type of lines to use. I initially thought of getting a an "integrated" type of line such as the Airflo 40+ or Rio outbound in both floating and intermediate guises but obviously for pollack I will need a fast sinker. To save on purchasing more spools for my reel and make changing line densities quicker and easier, as well as avoiding shredding expensive lines in the rocks, I thought about making up some shooting heads myself. No problem with the floating and intermediate densities, as obtaining double tapers in the correct size [#11] to cut back to the correct length is easy and both can be fished off a floating shooting line, such as Airflo poly shoot. However, assuming I manage to find a fast enough sinking double taper to turn into a shooting head, would I be correct in assuming I would need an intermediate or sinking shooting line? If a fast sinking head is attached to a floating running line would it not stop it getting down? Sorry if I have made this sound a little bit complicated but I do like to have the best set up I can whenever possible.
In a nutshell, I have a large arbor reel with a spare spool, how would you rig these up to enable me to fish for both bass and pollack effectively? Sorry to be so long winded but as I said I really would like to be properly tackled up to give me a fair chance of catching.

I wouldn't worry about the shooting head approach. Just go for a complete line - it will be fine and won't get wrecked on the rocks because you will invest your time and money into making yourself a stripping basket:

Take on washing up bowl from Wilkos (about £2) - choose a size that is comfy on your waist. Mine is about 14" long by 12" wide and 5" deep maybe 6".
Get a bungy strap that is long enough to go right round your waist and nearly meet in the middle.
Drill two holes, about 8mm, one on each corner of the same long side of the bowl. This is where the bungy strap attahces (it is your basket belt!) You can fine tune the length of the bungy by tying a knot in one end where it goes into the hook if you need to shorten it. It doesn't have to be tight - choose your bungy with care!

Drill a few holes in the bottom, 3mm - 5mm sort of size. These are drain holes. Make a nice neat pattern of about 8 or 10 in the bottom.

Drill some more holes - I have 8 - to take a cable tie each. The cable ties I have used are about 5mm wide. Simply put the cable tie straight up through the bottom of the bowl, so it sticks up like a blade of grass. These want to be spaced evenly around the bottom of the bowl. Their purpose is to help keep the line from tangling. I have epoxied the cable ties in place so they don't drop out (araldite, nothing fancy, used a small hole either side of the cable tie to give the epoxy some purchase....plastics are not glue friendly)

That's it - your lines will never tangle in the waves or seaweed or rocks ever again!

For your SWFFing over there, I would take a deep sinker (Rio outbound SB8 perhaps, or an Orvis Wonderline Gen 3 depth charge)
For day to day, either the Rio Aqualux (luminous running line and 40 feet of clear intermediate tip with a sink rate f 1.5 - 2 ips)

With those two you will have all but surface lures covered.

leaders. i have given up tying singapore leaders now. I just use tapered saltwater leaders (bonefish) and tie on tippet lengths, so a tapered leader lasts me all year. I am tight! I like the Orvis Mirage leaders and tippet (not the new High knot strength, the standard Mirage) in 12lb - 15lb size. You do need to use a good knot with the Mirage though (any fluorocarbon) - but the benefit of fluoro was brought home ot me freelining for tuna...normal mono, you could see the tuna veer away. Fluoro they snaffled the sardine with confidence. Learned to tie knots in fluorocarbon after that!

Where in Kerry you going? N or S?